Breakage is the result of the hair’s chemistry being thrown off balance. The majority of black hair breakage issues stem from simple overutilization of protein-rich products, and the lack of real moisture sources in our hair regimen.
The key to fighting hair breakage is to establish and maintain an appropriate protein and moisture balance. The right combination of both can make a major difference in the appearance and health of your hair textured. There are several things can that can break our hair fiber, but black or textured hair breakage tends to occur in two very basic forms;
- Moisture deficient: protein- Induced hair breakage is due to excess sun exposure, harsh shampoo products, the overuse of styling techniques; such as blow-drying and flat ironing can all trigger moisture-deficiency in our hair. These stressors evaporate moisture from our hair strands, and in the case of oils, prevent the entry of moisture into our strands. The overuse of protein-rich products such as protein conditioners, reconstructive treatments, and hard gels also induces moisture deficiency. Hair in the state of moisture deficiency is usually hard, inelastic and rigid.
- Protein Deficient: moisture-induced hair breakage, trigger by excess sun exposure and the overuse of styling techniques such as hair coloring and chemical relaxing. They destroy the hair’s natural protein structure. The overuse of rich, deep-conditioning treatments in our hair care regimen that is not sufficiently balanced induce protein deficiency in our hair. Hair in this state is often super elastic or too soft, stretchy and may not hold curls or style well.
Both types of breakage stem from unbalanced, unresolved structural and elasticity conditions within our hair fiber. Learning to effectively recognize the difference between protein-based and moisture-based breakage problem, will help us better organize our hair regimen and effectively combat breakage issues before it arises.
Protein and moisture work together synergistically to produce a healthy head of hair. Neither can work well without the other and a tendency to overuse or preference toward one than the other without a sufficient balance in a hair care regimen will always result in breakage. Hair damage that changes the hair’s natural protein architecture, for example, is mostly followed by some degree of moisture loss to the hair. Hair that has proper proteinate absorbs moisture more efficiently than hair with a shoddy protein structure because water molecules bind more easily to hair with a sound protein structure.
Hair products are either:
- Protein reconstructing and rebuilding or
- Moisture replenishing and conditioning.
Only non-water based products such as oils, serums, and relaxers fall outside the protein and moisture classification because they are neutral.
Using hair products that push our hair too far on either side of the protein or moisture balance spectrum will always lead to hair breakage.
Breakage can be minimized significantly by managing strategically alternative protein and moisture-based products in our regimen.
Balanced healthy hair s very resilient. Its protein strength and elastic moisture characteristics are well balanced within the fiber. It feels great, moves well and has amazing luster. Depending on the individual’s hair type, it will either have great shine or sheen. Black hair is weaker when it is wet, however, it will not break unless unusual stress is applied to it through aggressive handlings, like combing or detangling.
In this state, your wet hair feels strong, stretches slightly and returns to its original length with no breakage.
Recognizing moisture deficiencies: low moisture hair breakage is hair that is not treated regularly with moisturizing products. Regimens that feature regular heat styling and daily use of alcohol-based hair gels, and holding sprays.
You need more moisture if your wet hair feels rough, hard and tangly. Hair does not stretch much before breaking.
You need more moisture if; your wet hair feels rough, hard and tangly. Hair does not stretch much before.
You need more protein if; your hair feels weak, gummy and limp. Hair stretches and stretches before breaking.
3 LEVELS OF Breakage:
Level one breakage: balanced breakage is low moisture breakage and is typically corrected with one moisturizing deep-conditioning session. Hair has balanced health and daily breakage is minimal to nonexistent. Occasional breakage is expected because our hair texture strands are delicate fiber. Treating the hair once or twice daily with a water-based moisturizer will boost your hair.
- Choose sulfate-free shampoo
- Detangle your hair and saturate thoroughly with warm water.
Moderate breakage (Level 2 )is the intermediate stage where much breakage occurs, between healthy, unbroken hair and severe damage and breakage. The breakage at this level is slightly higher than level 1, and it occurs more easily. This level breakage is usually the result of minimal in level 1 either being neglected or, misdiagnosed and given improper treatment. Hair breakage is medium to a large clump of hair that may be lost after detangling or comb-out. Hair should be properly treated at this point to avoid any further damage.
Severe breakage ( level 3): is considered the red zone. Hair breakage at this level is chronic and heavy. This level breakage is most often the result of breakage in level 2 being allowed to continue and untreated for an extended period. Things to look out for are signs of thinning, short pieces, patchy hair loss areas, and sparsely filled areas that may be common on your head. Also, a see-through along the ends of the hair is the greatest indicator. The daily breakage at this level is extreme even with low-manipulation styling. The proper corrective treatments must be followed diligently for a while to return hair experiencing this level of breakage to its healthy balanced hair level. Some cutting may be required depending on the time frame of the hair breakage.
Post about Moisture: https://nafsibotanical.com/2019/10/27/moisture-moisturization-for-super-long-hair/
Post about protein treatment: https://nafsibotanical.com/2019/10/20/conditioner-the-best-conditioners-for-your-hair/
Post about pH balance: https://nafsibotanical.com/2019/09/21/ph-level-its-effect-for-hair-products/
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